FAQs
HELPFUL ANSWERS
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
Frequently Asked Questions
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Sales FAQs
Yes, we refer all our clients to Brian Bradley Electric to perform hot tub wiring and starting up the spa on site.
Some models can run on 110v, others require 220v with either a 50 or 60 amp breakers. We can evaluate your house supply at no charge.
While this will vary based on the size of the spa, the usage and the coldness of the winter.
Some models are available for 110 plug in. This may still require an electrician to run a separate line at the correct amperage.
Unlike a vehicle, you don’t need to have your spa “serviced” often. Proper water and filter maintenance will help prevent service requirements in itself.
Click here for our Water Care FAQ.
Pricing will vary depending on availability, accessories, and promotions. Our spas range from $10k to $28k. We recommend speaking to a hot tub consultant to determine what options may be of interest to you and discuss model selection. You can make a Showroom Appointment, or shop in the convenience of your own home with a Free In-Home Consultation.
Yes, to qualified buyers. You can submit an online financing application to see how much you are qualified for.
We have a full service team of factory certified technicians. We not only service the brands we sell but also many other brands.
It will draw more energy to drop the temperature and then raise it back up when you’re ready. We recommend keeping your hot tub at a consistent temperature. The insulation of the hot tub will keep the hot tub from constantly needing the hot tub to be heated.
No, much less! Principles are similar but its much easier to care for 500 gallons of water versus 30,000 gallons of water. Plus the reward is 365 days a year of enjoyment! There is required maintenance for hot tubs on a daily, weekly, monthly, and quarterly basis. New England Spas does its best to simplify the water care schedule for you. We also offer Valet services to care for your hot tub on a weekly, bi-weekly, or monthly basis. We also offer “Drain, Clean, and Refills” which is part of the quarterly maintenance.
That will vary depending on your usage of the hot tub.
Our Elemental Water Care Program makes it easy to maintain your hot tub. Click here to download a PDF version.
Yes and No. Our delivery team members will bring the hot tub to its final location, install any accessories purchased with the new hot tub, and show you basic operating instructions. The hot tub can be filled with use of a regular garden hose and easily done by the consumer. You will acquire all necessary water care supplies (preferably before delivery) along with an in store water care lesson to be ready for your start up. If you use our recommended electrician Brian Bradley Electrical then he will fill and add the “start up” chemicals for you prior to leaving your property. We also have a Valet team who you can hire to do this process for you.
Our team will deliver your hot tub to its final location providing that the spa is not:
- going on a deck (railing must be removed) higher than 3 feet
- going over retaining walls with no other access to the property for safe delivery
- going down or up very drastic slopes in the landscapes
We ask that our clients take snap shots of the “delivery route” (video is even better) they would like us to take to get the hot tub to its final location so we can determine best equipment to bring, how many team members are needed for the delivery, if the use of a crane would be necessary to make the delivery happen. We offer a free site evaluation in the event that there is an area in question at the location or if you would like to ensure delivery could be possible.
Most ordered spas will take 6-8 weeks to arrive in. If a model is in stock then delivery can be super quick.
Warranty will differ between each tier of each brand. Our middle and top tier spas offer a 5 year warranty on parts and components while the entry level hot tubs carry a two year warranty on parts and components.
A well maintained hot tub can last in the upwards of 10-15 years. We can educate you as to how to prolong the life of your hot tub.
Some hot tubs while cheaper online (or in stores such as Costco or Home Depot) initially end up costing consumers more month to month (as well as in the long run) because of having inefficient insulation, pump operation, and weaker components.
The middle and top tier offer more features like variety of types of jets (giving different types of massage), upgrades in lighting and maintenance, than that of an entry level hot tub. They also carry a longer warranty.
We pride ourselves on being New England’s most successful hot tub dealer that has been in business for over 30 years. Our total focus is hot tubs and Saunas. Our business is fully committed to all things hot tubs! Our staff is fully (and factory) trained – giving you the most knowledgeable team to help with water care and service issues. We are Home Relaxation Specialists. Our Team delivers an extraordinary experience by providing the highest quality products and services that create enthusiastic customers.
Sundance Spas, the brand that we sell, is the premier hot tub brand. These spas are highly rated in the industry, and have a solid reputation for reliability. These spas last longer, run better, and give you optimal hydro-therapy.
Mostly synthetic wood and acrylic.
Some of our models are manufactured in California, others in Mexico.
There are many different color combinations between the interior and exterior options. This will vary between brands but most have very close or common colors you can select from. We can bring samples of the options so you can “shop at home”.
These units are self contained and require no outside plumbing. The spa will need to be wired electrically. We recommend using Brian Bradley Electric for any electrical set up with our hot tubs as he has performed thousands of installations, as well as fill and start your hot tub up for your first plunge.
A great way to navigate through models and what will work best in your home is through a free site evaluation. One of our staff members will come out to your home (via appointment setting) and help you work with sizes and measurements. We can also help determine if you have the proper spot for the tub of your choice.
We recommend 3 feet of unobstructed access to the hot tub panels in the event you need service. We do not recommend you put the hot tub up against any walls or unmovable fixtures. There are many clients that put their spa in a deck. For this application we recommend making removable deck panels to give us access to the sides of the hot tub if needed. Our consultants can help you and your builder construct a suitable setting.
The platform for the hot tub should be solid, rigid, and level. The typical weight load is 80-100 lbs per square foot. Some clients use pavers, framed timbers with crushed stone, or cement pads. We also offer a sample inexpensive solution called the SmartDeck which comes in 2’x2’ squares. We can offer you a free site evaluation to look at the best material to use for your hot tub platform. Click here for more information and to see examples of our installations.
Our spas are portable and can withstand the outside elements. Some clients do put these inside their homes but the size of the spa will dictate whether this is possible or not. We can offer you a free site evaluation to look at the best location for your hot tub. We recommend using the hot tub outdoors so you can more fully connect with nature!
Service FAQs
Ozone humming is normal. It is the vibration of ozone being sucked through the Ozone Injector.
If winterizing the hot tub: follow detailed steps in Owner’s Manual or contact our store for assistance. Damage caused to your spa by improper winterizing is NOT covered by your spas’ warranty. New England Spas offers a Winterizing and Un-Winterizing service. As the months get colder NES may not be able to complete this service. We recommend you consider and schedule a call prior to November 30th.
To minimize airlocks in the equipment follow these steps below and turn hose on. This will fill the tub through the heater, pumps, and jets pushing most of the air out of the lines.
- HotSpring/Limelight/HotSpot/Tiger River Spas: put hose down the center of the gray standpipe in the filter compartment.
- Sundance Spas: take out the filter(s) and put the hose into.
– the opening on the side wall of the filter compartment (if an 780, 880, or 980 series hot tub)
– the filter bucket open (at the bottom of the filter well) - Fill the spa to the top of the highest jets.
- HOT SPRING ONLY:
– For 240v spas, turn on the 20 amp breaker and run jets 10 mins, then turn on the 30 amp breaker and continue to run jets 30 min.
– For 120v spas, plug in and immediately turn on jets for 10 minutes. Either way, turn the diverter handle(if applicable)slowly 360° (Vista, Grandee GG version, Grandee CC version, Envoy, Siberian, Caspian, Pulse, Flair & Glow models, turn on the 30 amp breaker first, run jets for 10 mins, then the 20amp)
If the hot tub has no power, or is not heating:
Hot Spring Spas: Place a droplight with a 60 or 75-watt bulb inside the access panel over pump one. (Facing control panel, usually behind right wooden section)
Sundance Spas: Place a small, UL listed, space heater into the main equipment area on LOW HEAT, HIGH FAN.
In both cases, make sure neither the drop light or space heater is not touching any components, wires, or insulation and replace the cabinet panel to the best of your ability. Leave the hot tub cover on and fastened to retain as much heat as possible.
Make sure:
- The water is at a level which covers all of the jets (making sure not to touch the pillow, or overfill). This affects the water flow through the heater.
- The filter has been cleaned within the last four weeks by soaking it in Filter Clean (if applicable) and that filter is not older than 18 months. In order to test whether or not the filter is the cause of a no-heat situation.
– Turn the power off at the outside breaker
– Take out the filter out of the spa (make sure that nothing is floating in the spa that could get sucked into the filter area).
– After leaving the spa off for 45 minutes, turn the spa back on without the filters in the spa to see if it begins heating.
– If it begins heating you know it is the filter causing the problem. - The controls are set in continuous heat mode and/or programmed for several hours of heating.
- Is Leisure Time Defender used bi-weekly? This prevents calcium buildup on the heater, which will lead to inefficient heat transfer.
- Use Spa Cleanse at least once a year, prior to draining, to help remove organic build up in the heater.
- Sundance Spas: Check mode. When in ‘Economy’ mode, hot tub models will heat only when jets are activated or during filter cycles. If your hot tub is in Standard mode (models between 2003-2020) the hot tub should be heating properly.
- Hot Spring Spas: Check mode. When in ‘Summer’ mode, hot tub models will heat only when jets are activated or during filter cycles. Some older Tiger River models have heaters with a reset button, refer to owner’s manual for location or other tips.
Shut off the power to the hot tub at the outside breaker for about 45 minutes. Turn the power back on and check the system. Sometimes this “reboot” procedure clears up the problem.
Enabling 60 Amp logic on your Sundance Spa will allow pumps, the air blower and the heater to run simultaneously.
880 Series: Place a jumper on JP9 # 7, located ¾ of the way down on the left side of the circuit board.
780 Series: Place a jumper on JP1 # 5/6, located in the top right corner of the circuit board.
All Sundance models are equipped with a safety feature called “Summer Logic”. This feature turns off the circulation pump when the water temperature in the spa rises to 2 degrees Fahrenheit above the set temperature. This phenomenon can occur in warmer weather because the circulation pump adds heat (while running) through the process of convection. If the ambient air temperature is hot, the water does not cool as quickly and retains the heat for a longer period.
Summer Logic disables the circulation pump and the heater to decrease the spa’s water temperature. If the circulation pump is off (no bubbles), the spa is not heating and appears dead. Fill the spa with cool water and change filter cycles from daytime to evening, when the temperature is cooler. Consider running the air bubbles in the evening’s cooler air-with the cover off, as this will assist in cooling the water.
Turn off the power to the outside breaker for at least 45 minutes, and then turn back on. This will reset the spa.
Turn the power off to the hot tub at the outside breaker: Take out the filter out of the spa (make sure that nothing is floating in the spa that could get sucked into the filter area). After leaving the spa off for 45 minutes turn the spa back on and turn both pumps and air on for 45 minutes.
If the FLO message goes away either replace the filter with a new filter or thoroughly clean your existing (non-disposable) filter. Clean the filter by soaking it in a solution of 16 oz. Filter Clean with 4 gallons of water in a separate container overnight and rinsing with clean water until you see no residue in the rinse water.
If the water has been changed recently and the filter has been cleaned, there may be an air lock. To resolve:
- Turn off the power at the outside breaker
- Remove the filter
- Place a garden hose in the opening where the filter was; this leads into the plumbing.
- Turn the hose on at full force to dissipate the air bubble.
- Alternatively, again with the power to the spa turned off, remove the large diverter knob by pulling straight up then loosening the diverter nut to allow the air to dissipate.
- Did you remember to put the hose down the center of the gray standpipe/filter area and clean your filters when refilling your hot tub?
- If No, the pump may have an airlock, or the filters may have tripped the hi-limit. Reset the hi-limit (Refer to Owner’s Manual) and place a hose down the gray standpipe (just like when you fill your spa) to flush out the air. If you have an ozone unit, look for a steady stream of bubbles, if you do not have an ozone unit, look for the curling/rippling of the top of the water.
- Make sure there is no foreign debris in the spa, pull filters out and replace caps. Run jets 30 min, turn the power to the spa off for 1 minute, and then restore power.
- If red light stops blinking the problem has been corrected.
- If red light is still blinking, go to online service request form.
The number one cause of a Moto-Massage jet not working is a clogged filter. Make sure your filter(s) have been cleaned within the last four weeks by soaking in Filter Clean (if applicable) and that the filter is not older than 18 months (unless it is a Tri-X filter). In this case you need to soak the filter if it has been more than three months, if less than three months, please run your filter through the rinse cycle on your dishwasher with NO DISHSOAP and NO DRYING CYCLE.
A quick test to see if the spa filter is the cause: Turn the power off to the spa at the main breaker (for about 15 minutes) then take out the filter(s) from the hot tub. Make sure that nothing is floating in the spa that could get sucked into the filter area before you turn the breaker back on. Once power is returned, without the filter(s) in, see if the Moto-Massage jet begins operating properly. If it does not fix the issue please contact our Service Department to schedule a repair.
- Turn power to the spa off for 1 minute, then turn power back on. For 240 v spas, turn on the 20 amp breaker and then turn on the 30 amp breaker. For 120 v spas, plug in.
- If light continues to blink, please contact our Service Department.
This indicates low water flow, follow procedures for Blinking Red light.
Water Care FAQs
If winterizing the hot tub: follow detailed steps in Owner’s Manual or contact our store for assistance. Damage caused to your spa by improper winterizing is NOT covered by your spas’ warranty. New England Spas offers a Winterizing and Un-Winterizing service. As the months get colder NES may not be able to complete this service. We recommend you consider and schedule a call prior to November 30th.
We do not recommend draining and refilling your hot tub once the weather has consistently been under 35 degrees. There is a high chance of encountering a potential freeze situation which may damage the hot tubs’ components and is not covered by warranty. If you absolutely need to drain and refill, plan to do so when the weather breaks and it’s a warmer day. Make sure to reference our Winter Filling Procedure.
First try “shocking” the water with Renew (remember to leave your hot tub cover open for at least 20 minutes while doing this). Re-test with a test strip to see if the level of chlorine has changed.
If not, add in 1 ounce of Spa 56 Chlorinating Granules and test your spa in one hour. If no chlorine is present, continue to add 1 ounce per hour until you can hold a 1-3 ppm reading on a test strip for 6+ hours.
If your water is older than 6 months old it’s time to change the hot tub water and start over. If the hot tub has had heavy use and is only 3-4 months old it still may be time to change the water.
The water source being used likely has very heavy metal content. When adding in Chlorine, Bromine, or Renew to the hot tub water when the metal content has not been resolved will result in either discolored water or a scum ring. This can be wiped away with a soft cloth. Using a Start Rite pre-filter may be necessary for each water change. This product can be accompanied by Leisure Time Metal Gon to sequester and remove metals from the water. We recommend rinsing your filter after using either product to rinse off any residual from the filter cartridge.
The number one cause of a Moto-Massage jet not working is a clogged filter. Make sure your filter(s) have been cleaned within the last four weeks by soaking in Filter Clean (if applicable) and that the filter is not older than 18 months (unless it is a Tri-X filter). In this case you need to soak the filter if it has been more than three months, if less than three months, please run your filter through the rinse cycle on your dishwasher with NO DISHSOAP and NO DRYING CYCLE.
A quick test to see if the spa filter is the cause: Turn the power off to the spa at the main breaker (for about 15 minutes) then take out the filter(s) from the hot tub. Make sure that nothing is floating in the spa that could get sucked into the filter area before you turn the breaker back on. Once power is returned, without the filter(s) in, see if the Moto-Massage jet begins operating properly. If that does not fix the issue please enter an online request here.
While ozone is highly effective at oxidizing, it does not destroy clarifiers, or make them ineffective. Clarifiers, such as Enzyme or Bright & Clear, are beneficial in ozonated hot tubs by either:
- bringing the particles together to help the filter pick them up
- using enzymes to break down oils and other organics
Both allow the filter to help removing these particles from the water.
We recommend using both. Even though ozone is an effective oxidizer, destroying micro-organisms, ozone has a relatively short life in hot water. Ozone is not present for a sufficient length of time to assure adequate sanitation of an entire tub, including the surfaces and plumbing. An ozonator, however, does reduce chlorine or bromine consumption. We recommend you pair a Side Kick Mineral Cartridge in conjunction with the ozone for optimal results.
The best way to clean a pleated filter cartridge is by using Leisure Time Filter Clean which is designed specifically for pleated cartridges. The solution contains both acids and detergents to ensure that all oils, lotions, and minerals will be removed from the filter. Proper cleaning increases the longevity of the cartridge, as well as ensures your hot tub jet pumps can operate at their optimal level. Clean your cartridge filter once a month. This may need to be increased depending on use and bather load.
Some filters do not require filter clean. Be sure to discuss with a local retail or sales associate to make sure the filter in the hot tub does not require this.
*TIP: Using a dishwasher on rinse cycle only will clean out the larger debris, but can also damage the fabric on the filter (unless you are using Tri-X filters from HotSpring). Tri-X filters do not require any detergent to be added to the machine but a hot rinse ONLY cycle in the dishwasher (no jet dry).
Frequency depends on the sanitizer and the bather load. If you are using the two-part bromine sanitizing system, we recommend that you shock each time you finish using your spa. If you are using chlorine or bromine tablets, we recommend that you “shock” at least once a week. If there are many bathers, or the water gets cloudy, shock more often. Make sure when doing a “shock” treatment you leave the hot tub cover open for at least 20 minutes.
The pH is low and the total alkalinity is high. Adjust the low reading first whenever the pH and the total alkalinity are opposite of one another. For example, add Spa Up (pH increaser) until it is within a normal pH range. Then, adjust total alkalinity by adding a pH level reducer. After you have completed this process and your pH and alkalinity are in the appropriate range, you are now able to use New England Spas’ Silky Smooth to lock these characteristics into place.
Soft water has a low calcium level. Too little calcium can cause corrosion, especially in heaters and other metal components. To increase water hardness to the recommended level of 150-250 ppm, add a product such as Leisure Time Calcium Booster.
Conversely, too much calcium can cause wall and heating element scaling or cloudy water. Leisure Time Defender will prevent scale/calcium buildup.
While pH and total alkalinity requirements are the same, the bromine or chlorine sanitizer levels (and the products used to adjust these) for a spa should are different; the level for a spa, without mineral cartridge and Ozone unit, needs to be kept between 1-3 ppm for chlorine and 3-5 ppm for bromine.
Spa filters require more frequent cleaning. In addition, the water requires more frequent care to assure correct pH and sanitizer levels. This is due to the fact that a spa contains less water than a pool, and the water is hot rather than cold.
Calcium deposits appear as scale on the heater elements. It flakes off from the action of the blowers and jets. Leisure Time Defender, can prevent this scaling with a bi-weekly application.
White or clear “chips” may also be a build up of skin cells. Using Spa Cleanse can help remove build up from calcium, biofilm, and skin cells from the plumbing lines annually.
If the “chips” look more like wet tissue paper you may have a water mold which will need to be treated immediately. Please contact our office prior to draining your spa for a detailed plan to get your spa thoroughly cleaned.
There are several possible reasons for a foamy hot tub. One common cause is the rapidly moving water interacting with bathers who have soaps and detergents on their bodies (think body wash, deodorants, and lotions) and bathing suits. Showering before entering the spa helps prevent this problem.
TIP: when washing bathing suits in your washing machine, use an extra rinse cycle to help remove as much soap detergent as possible. Hang dry the hot tub bathing suits and wash periodically. This will help reduce and avoid foaming. Remember any friends or outside family members will need to have their bathing suits rinsed, too.
Another cause of foam is soft water. This may look like a “rolling foam” or foam that does not build (like soap suds would). The water may also sound like its sizzling if you have low calcium. To correct these issues raise the calcium level to 150-250 ppm with Calcium Booster.
Organic waste build-up is a third cause for foaming. “Shocking” the spa on a regular basis oxidizes the wastes out of the water. To “shock” the water add in 2 ounces of Renew to the water with the jets on. *Make sure to leave the hot tub cover open for 20 minutes while circulating the Renew.
If you already have foam then use of Seaklear Defoamer can help break down what was causing the foam and help remove it from the water.
Keeping your pH and alkalinity in ideal ranges (7.2-7.8 for pH and 80-120ppm for alkalinity) will keep the water in your hot tub feeling nice. When the hot tub water has too low pH the water becomes acidic and may damage the hot tub’s equipment. When the hot tub water has too high pH the water can produce scaling that will line the plumbing and acrylic surface. At times the water may become cloudy.
Using a test strip, verify all levels (chlorine, alk, pH, calcium hardness) are in the correct range. If they are out of balance then correct these steps before proceeding. If all levels are in the ideal range then look to “shock” your water with two or four ounces of Renew (leave your hot tub cover open for 20 minutes while using this product). If you’ve done this recently then make sure your hot tub filter has been properly cleaned.
Cloudy water can come from:
Zero residual of chlorine or bromine levels in the water (add in sanitizer)
Too high pH and alkalinity (adjust pH)
A build up of dissolved solids (use of Renew)
Dirty or clogged filters (doesn’t allow proper filtration)
Water has been in the hot tub too long (excess of 3-4 months)
Winter FAQs
We highly encourage you to keep your spa open so that you can enjoy it during the winter months! We recommend maintaining the temperature of your spa at a minimum of 100 degrees during the winter. If your spa temperature is 100 degrees or higher and a short power outage occurs, heat loss will be minimal (make sure you keep your spa covered)!
If your spa stops working, displays an error code, leaks or loses power in the winter, don’t panic. Your spa is very well insulated and designed for cold weather. If your spa water is hot OR the spa water is circulating, you do not need to be concerned with a potential freeze situation. Please simply fill out a service request form here or call 1-800-258-5300 Ext 2 and we will assist you.
Find the answers to our most frequently asked questions about winter weather below.
When there is snow on the ground please do the following to prepare for a service visit:
- Make sure that the spa and a pathway to it are shoveled out.
- Steps in front of the spas are set aside.
- Cover should be clean of snow (we recommend sno-brums vs. shovels!)
- Any access panels are removed ONLY if the spa panels are not directly accessible (for example your spa is sunk into a deck).
Filling and starting a spa when the temperatures are below 38 degrees requires the following:
The pumps and components in the equipment area should be thawed prior to filling. Some residual water from manufacturer quality assurance testing can possibly remain in the spa and plumbing thus preventing water flow thru the plumbing. If there is frozen water in the pumps the spa will not turn on or it will turn on, but there won’t be any circulation/spa water action and the motor will hum. Make sure to shut off spa until defrosting is done.
For the following make sure NO contact is made with any materials so as not to cause melting or fire. Both of these processes should only be used while someone is at the spa to monitor for safety reasons.
On a Sundance spa, and most Hot Spring spas (aside from the Jetsetter): place/ hang a drop light (60 or 75 watt bulb) or place a small space heater (set on LOW HEAT, HIGH FAN) in the right hand equipment area until the lines / pumps are thawed
On a Jetsetter Hot Spring spa: face a small space heater toward the equipment (set on LOW HEAT, HIGH FAN) with a plywood lean-to over the heater and equipment area, also cover lean-to with a tarp and secure it so it won’t blow against heater.
We do recommend keeping your spa open and enjoyed during the winter months. If your concern is energy cost, please contact us for suggestions. The cost of a winterizing/de-winterizing your spa is typically higher than the energy cost of keeping your spa running.
If your concern is caring for your spa during coldest months, consider signing up for our valet services and we will maintain your spa for you!
We only recommend emptying your spa if you will be out of town for the winter months. If you do want to empty your hot tub for the winter (winterize) the hot tub: follow detailed steps in Owner’s Manual or contact our store for assistance. Damage caused to your spa by improper winterizing is NOT covered by your spas’ warranty.
We do not recommend draining and refilling your hot tub once the weather has consistently been below 35 degrees. There is a high chance of encountering a potential freeze situation which may damage the hot tubs’ components and is not covered by warranty. If you absolutely need to drain and refill, plan to do so when the weather breaks and it’s a warmer day.
If the weather has been consistently below 32 degrees and any of the following circumstances apply, follow the Freeze Prevention Instructions below. Freeze damage is not covered by manufacturer warranty.
- Hot tub has lost power for longer than 48 hours
- Hot tub is not heating, and the spa’s water temperature is dropping
- Hot tub has a leak, and the water level is dropping so fast that you cannot keep the spa topped off.
If your spa is hot or the water is circulating, you DO NOT need to follow the below instructions.
If you are unsure whether these conditions apply, fill out a service request form here or call 1-800-258-5300 Ext 2 and you will be contacted to discuss the situation.
Freeze Prevention Instructions
DO NOT DRAIN THE SPA. There is a chance of encountering a potential freeze situation which may damage the hot tub’s components, or rupture its plumbing, and is not covered by warranty. A full spa has a much greater chance of surviving a cold snap than an empty and improperly winterized spa. Keep the spa full and topped off and follow the steps below.
- Shut the breaker off, remove the filter and any other objects that might be in the spa (this could be the cause of the shutdown)
- Put a space heater (UL listed with independent heat and fan controls) in the spa’s equipment area and set to LOW HEAT, HIGH FAN. (See example 1 at the bottom of the page)
- If the equipment area is not large enough to fit a space heater, or you have a leak and water is in the equipment area, face the space heater towards the equipment and make a shelter using the panel and enclose with a tarp to keep as much heat inside as possible. Set the fan to LOW HEAT, HIGH FAN. (See example 2 at the bottom of the page)
Make sure not to place the space heater in direct contact with, or up against, any equipment, wires, or surfaces to avoid potential damage. The fan should be facing towards the components.
UL listed space heaters with independent heat and fan controls are available for rent at all New England Spas showroom locations.
- If you are not comfortable using a space heater, a small incandescent (NOT LED) droplight (60 or 75 watt bulb) may be sufficient to prevent damage. (See example 3 at the bottom of the page)
- Close the spa’s equipment area either by reinstalling the panels, or creating a tent with a tarp.
- Keep your spa covered!
The tub may very well thaw out and start working fine if the filter was the problem (you may need to reset the breaker if it has tripped).
If the tub does not start working once the equipment is thawed, keep the space heater/droplight in place. This will keep the spa from further freezing issues until a service appointment can be made (if needed).
Information and Directions Disclaimer
New England Spas assumes no liability for any incidental, consequential or other liabilities from the use of this information. All risks and damages, incidental or otherwise, arising from the use, alteration or misuse of the information contained herein are entirely the responsibility of the user. Although careful precaution has been taken in the preparation of this material, the user of this information must apply it carefully to their circumstances. We assume no responsibility for omissions or errors.
Space Heater Examples
Example 1 - Space Heater
Example 2 - Space Heater - Small Area
